Leather 101

Frequently asked questions

How to pick the right leather for you

Leather hides come in many different colors, textures, finishes, & weights. Below I've described the leather finishes I carry in my shop. You can also now watch a video of each color I have in the shop at my youtube channel. This can help you decide which is best for you. You can also order a leather swatch kit here

What does Glossy pull-up mean?

These leathers have a smooth hand feel with a rich glazed look. They come in a solid color but as I create, fold, and flex the items during production, oils that were saturated deep into the skin migrate to the top causing a very nice tonal effect or 'marble' look called 'pull-up'. These products will also patina and darken with you over the years as true with any quality full-grain leather. This leather builds character with you over time. It will scratch and absorb oils. Sun exposure can alter the color. Most of the time leather conditioners help reduce these marks and keeps the leather looking beautiful. Your life lives in these bags and they will show off all the experience through the years only getting better, just like an amazing bottle of wine. Read More for a little more techinal info from Horween: This process takes at least six months. Each hide is slowly steeped in gentle vegetable liquors. Then are genuine hot stuffed and slicked onto glass frames to dry. Each hide is hand curried and shaved by highly skilled artisans and then dyes are hand rubbed on for a deep aniline finish. Finally, they are hand glazed to achieve the rich, glossy look and feel; prized by fine craftsmen and leather lovers everywhere. This beautiful quality and hand feel has been made by Horween Leather Co. in Chicago where it has been being made consistently since the early 1900's.

What is Horween?

The Horween Leather Company has set the standard for the highest quality leathers since 1905. Offering a wide range of dynamic finishes. All of the leather is processed at their location on the corner of Elston and Ashland in Chicago, Illinois, USA. I'm proud to showcase my work in their finishes and provide beatuiful pieces to you that will last.

What is Nubuck?

Durable, thick, and water resistant nubuck is surprisingly easy to take care of. If you LOVE soft textures but still want a quality bag this is your perfect match. This soft leather is brushed to give it the suede-like texture but still completely full-grain leather so it will last beautifully over time. Even when the bag darkens over time you can give it a little brush to refresh the nap. Nubuck cleaner kits work best to refresh or even take out marks like, pens, makeup, even light dyes. Even though most are water resistant I always advise on spraying your new bag with a 'protect-all' for suede and nubuck. This will not change the color of the leather but will protect it from harsh rain storms. All my nubuck leather also come directly from Horween in Chicago for superior quality.

Transforms to Caramel??

This means the leather is vegtable dyed and waxed letting the leather's soft natural color shine through. These products will start very light in color but over time will absorb the natural elements around them and transform into a deep caramel color after a few months to years. All my natural vegtable tanned leather also come directly from Horween in Chicago for superior quality.

What does soft with texture mean?

This yummy leather is so SOFT to the touch it feels like its going to melt in your hands. It is super relaxed and has less structure than my other leathers so I only use it in my smaller bags. This leather is top coated finished at the Horween tannery so you can use a regular leather conditioner on it. It shows less stratches and marks on the hide with the amazing texture. This finish will still get darker and patina over time as like any full grain quality hide. A little more from Horween: These hides are vegetable tanned with an unreal, deerskin like feel. After dried the leather is then finished with a top protector coat. This will most likely be the most supple, luxurious leather you will ever feel. In photo: Tangerine

What does 'WC' stand for?

WC - is the abreviation for the Pennsylvania Tannery Wickett & Craig. I use their light weight vegtable tanned leathers for the slim wallets. All of their leathers are either smooth or also have a glossy finish that will both patina and grow darker over time. Wickett & Craig also only produces full-grain qaulity leathers.

Smooth & light weight?

These leathers will be a lighter weight ounce than my normal weights (that usually come in the glossy pull-up category. ) A great pick if you have shoulder issues or like the soft already broken in feel of bags. This type of leather will be available in my small bags as it is not recommened for larger bag that can carry alot of weight. (heavy items such as computers)